The Biggest Myth of Perfumery
The Complexity of Perfume Making
by AbdesSalaam Attar
There is a widespread myth that the art of making fragrances is a complicated, technical, and time-consuming process. On the contrary, making perfumes is an instinctive, fast, and surprisingly accessible craft. On the contrary, making perfumes is easy. Just like swimming is easy, but you have to learn. You can learn how to make perfumes, just as you can learn how to swim, in just a few lessons. My students can become perfumers in 6 days.
Before the prevalence of the chemical industry, making perfumes in the old traditional way was an art deeply rooted in nature, craftsmanship, and an intimate understanding of raw materials.
The traditional approach to perfume-making relied on natural essences extracted mostly from botanical sources, and the whole process was a harmonious blend of science and creativity that involved:
- Natural Ingredients
In the traditional method, perfumers utilized a wide array of natural ingredients, including essential oils, absolutes, extracts, and tinctures obtained from flowers, fruits, woods, resins, and spices. These raw materials were sourced from diverse geographical locations, each imparting its unique character and meaning to the fragrance. The reliance on nature gave depth and authenticity to the perfumes. - Distillation Techniques
Distillation, a fundamental technique in traditional perfumery, is originally an alchemical process. It consists of extracting essential oils from plant materials by steam distillation. This process not only extracts and preserves the aromatic essence of the plants but it also potentiates its olfactory and healing properties. - Tinctures and Infusions
Perfumers often produced their own tinctures and infusions by steeping botanical materials in pure alcohol or oil to extract their aromatic compounds. This extraction process allowed for the nuanced capture of aromas from delicate flowers and animal scents, providing a broader palette of notes to compose perfumes. - Maceration and Aging
Unlike the hurried pace of contemporary perfume production, traditional perfumers understood the value of time. Blends were allowed to mature through maceration, a process where the perfume ingredients and the perfumes themselves were left to meld and evolve over an extended period. This aging process allowed the notes to harmonize seamlessly. - Artisanal Craftsmanship
Perfume making, in the traditional sense, was a highly artisanal craft. Perfumers, often working independently or within familial workshops, passed down their knowledge through generations. This intimate, hands-on approach allowed for a deep connection with the materials and an understanding of how different components interacted to create a well-balanced perfume. - Limited Batch Production
Traditional perfumery was characterized by limited batch production. Unlike the mass production of today, perfumers focused on quality over quantity. This bespoke approach ensured that each perfume creation was a unique expression of the perfumer’s skill and artistic vision. - Environmental Harmony
The reliance on natural ingredients not only contributed to the richness of the fragrances but also fostered a sense of harmony and balance. - Cultural Influences
Traditional perfumery was often deeply intertwined with cultural practices and regional influences. Perfumers drew inspiration from local flora, traditional healing practices, and the symbolic significance of certain scents. This cultural connection added a layer of meaning and depth to the perfumes crafted in this manner.
The traditional way of making perfumes, before the advent of the chemical industry, was a holistic and artistic pursuit. It involved a profound respect for nature, a keen understanding of botanicals, and a dedication to craftsmanship that has, to some extent, been overshadowed by the synthetic and commercial approaches dominating modern perfumery. The revival of interest in traditional methods represents a longing for the authenticity and artistry inherent in the age-old craft of perfume making.
The 1% Work, 99% Inspiration Paradigm
In most artistic endeavors, 99% of the work is indeed laborious, while only 1% is attributed to inspiration. However, in the realm of perfume making, this ratio is flipped: the work involved is a mere 1%, and a staggering 99% is driven by inspiration. This revelation challenges the notion that creating a captivating fragrance requires an extensive amount of technical expertise and time-consuming effort.
Dispelling the Time-Consuming Myth
The biggest myth of perfumery is the idea that making perfumes is difficult: perfumers spend years perfecting a fragrance before it can be introduced to the market. This, however, is a carefully cultivated myth. The truth is, if a perfumer finds themselves dedicating more than a few hours to a perfume, it is not a reflection of the inherent difficulty in crafting a captivating scent. Rather, it is a testament to the challenges posed by the use of cheap chemical ingredients, often necessitating a ‘tour de force’ to create something merely acceptable to the human nose.
The Corporate Influence on Perfume Creation
The prolonged timelines associated with perfume-making are not indicative of the creative process; instead, they are a result of external influences. Boards of evaluators, commercials, and marketers often impose successive changes to eradicate originality and personality from a fragrance. This approach stems from the risk-averse nature of corporations in the perfume industry, viewing each fragrance as a ‘hit-and-run’ business opportunity. The emphasis is on creating a one-season sales hit, ensuring a quick return on investment before moving on to the next venture and the next perfume.
The Profitability of Crap Selling
Perfume-making, when driven by mass-market considerations, becomes a business of churning out subpar products. This approach, known colloquially as ‘crap selling,’ relies on the constant introduction of new fragrances to keep consumers hoping for something better than the last. It thrives on the perpetual cycle of delusion and wishful thinking, a scheme that marketers have mastered for various industries.
Perfume-Making Simplicity and Youthful Brilliance
Contrary to the prevailing belief that perfume-making requires extensive training and expertise, even children when shown the method, can make fragrances much better than most of those found in perfumery shops. The simplicity lies in relying on one’s character and personality, not in specialized olfactory abilities or technical knowledge. Children, in particular, demonstrate an innate ability to choose ingredients, blend them in the rightly, and make a good perfume in as little as 10 minutes.
Conclusion
In conclusion, the biggest myth of perfumery revolves around the complexity and time-consuming nature of perfume making. In reality, the true essence of crafting captivating fragrances lies in inspiration and a particular mental attitude which I call “switching to the perfumer’s brain”. Perfume making, far from being an exclusive art, is accessible to those with a willingness to embrace creativity and drop all preconceived notions about the intricacies of the craft.
Everyone can make his own perfumes
The Complexity of Perfume Making
